Acropolis Now

Those of you of a certain age will recognize that I stole the entry title from a Joe Jackson song. I've always wanted to use it in some context and today is as good as any.

Today was our first day of sightseeing in Athens. Despite our gripes about having to move to the Metropolitan Hotel, they do serve an excellent (and, for us, free) breakfast buffet. Any parents reading this blog may rest assured that their kids will not starve to death here--unless, of course, they have to pay for dinner. Being a somewhat experienced business traveller, this hotel strikes me as the stereotypical "our-guests-are-on-expense-accounts-so-soak-them-dry" type of place that has a mostly business clientele. The dinner buffet is 27 euros--at today's exchange rate, that's a cool $38. Want a burger instead? That's 24 euros ($34). I wouldn't pay $34 for a good steak, never mind a burger. Good thing the cashews and pistachios at the bar are free. There are a couple of restaurants a few blocks away, but I'm guessing they are not much cheaper. I miss our other hotel locations where you could go next door or a few doors away and get a sandwich for a few euros.

Anyway, getting a little off track here. We left the hotel about 9 AM on our chartered bus and headed straight for the Acropolis, probably the most famous location in Greece. I did not know much about the Acropolis before coming to Athens, except that it was a bunch of ruins on top of a hill in the middle of town. The Acropolis, or "upper city", was the most important location in ancient Athens. Archaeologists believe that the Acropolis was first inhabited in around 5000 BC. Most of the structures built there were religious in nature. Among them:

1) The most famous strucure on the Acropolis is the Parthenon, built as a temple to the goddess Athena (the "patron saint" of Athens). It was built in the 5th century BC. At various times, the Parthenon has also been a Christian church and a mosque, and was used as an ammunition dump during a war between the Ottomans and the Venetians (a well-placed Venetian cannon shot ignited the ammunition and caused an explosion that severely damaged the structure). During our visit today we saw the ongoing reconstruction/restoration effort that will partially repair some of the centuries-old damage. The scaffolding and cranes unfortunately take away some of the romantic effect, but we still greatly enjoyed our visit.
2) The Erechtheion, the next largest building, was the tomb of the Athenian king Erechtheus. It is in excellent condition and we took lots of photos of it.
3) The Propylaia was the entrance built by the Greeks, built before the entrance (now called the Beule Gate) built by the Romans. As our guidebook says, "it is characteristic of the Roman mania for building that they found it necessary to build an entrance to an entrance."
4) The Temple of Athena Nike (goddess of victory). I was greatly impressed by this building and took several photos of it, so I was a little disappointed to read after our visit that it was heavily restored about 80 years ago. I'll still enjoy the photos though.

The Acropolis was rather crowded during our visit, and this is not even peak tourist season, so I can imagine what it's like at that time. Poor Joanie, between her cold and her sore foot, had a bit of a rough time getting around but she was a real trooper.

After our Acropolis visit (and a rather unsavory bathroom encounter that I will not detail here), we moved on to the Theater of Dionysius, built about a century after the Parthenon at the foot of the Acropolis hill. It held 17,000 people, more than a lot of professional basketball/hockey arenas today (and I bet the ancient Athenians didn't pay $7.50 for a 12 ounce cup of lukewarm Budweiser).

Our next stop was the Acropolis museum across the street. It contains many of the "marbles" (statues, friezes, etc.) recovered from the Acropolis site. The museum was completed less than two years ago and is partially built over an archaeological site, so glass panels were installed in front of the entrance and parts of the first floor so visitors can see the "dig". Some of the items displayed in the museum have been in storage for over 200 years.

At this point (having been in the vicinity of the Acropolis for about three and a half hours), we walked northeast along Amalias street, intending to walk until we reached the Catholic cathedral of the Archdiocese of Athens, St. Dionysius (the Greek god of wine--how's that for the name of a church?!). It's a little over a mile from the Acropolis and a mostly uphill walk. About two thirds of the way, we stopped at Syntagma (Constitution) Square, considered the center of modern Athens, and stopped at a cafe for a break. The name of the cafe on the awning and on the placemat was written in Greek letters, which I cleverly (and probably incorrectly) interpreted as "Pantheon". Joanie had her favorite--Greek salad--while I put away three Mythos beers. Hey, it was a hot day and a long walk, so no aspersions please. Besides, they were served with a frosty glass and who can resist that? Incidentally, Mythos is an excellent Greek beer that I have never seen in the US, so if anyone has seen it sold in the Chattanooga area please let me know.

Joanie stayed in the square and relaxed while I continued on to St. Dionysius. I didn't know until I arrived at the church that "Dionysius" is considered the equivalent Greek name to "Dennis". I got the mass times for tomorrow and reported this intelligence back to Joanie. We then made our way to the shuttle bus stop for the ride back to the hotel. It was next to a McDonald's, where I had a Big and Tasty the size of a manhole cover. I may not have to eat for another week. While waiting for the shuttle, we were joined by a number of other students, and we realized that the bus would be at or near capacity. The shuttle arrived and Joanie, setting a good example for the students, allowed them to go first and maneuvered us to the back of the line. Joanie and I were about to get on when a middle-aged Greek couple literally elbowed us out of the way and climbed on. We were appalled and complained to the driver, who told us he would return in 20 minutes. I was skeptical because 1) the shuttle was not scheduled to return for almost an hour and 2) as we read in our guidebooks before the trip, the Greeks (to coin a British phrase) "take a large view of the appointed time." I told Joanie that he probably said that just to placate us and that his return would take much longer. Imagine my shock when exactly--exactly--20 minutes later, the shuttle came back around the circle to pick us up. I was pleasantly surprised--and then appalled again when ANOTHER local barged in front of us to get on the shuttle first. Luckily there were only three of us this time so there was no problem with space, but I've learned my lesson about the Greeks and waiting in line. Good to know there are even worse line-cutters than the Italians.

I did three miles on the treadmill back at the hotel to work out my frustrations and burn off as much of the Big and Tasty as I could, then joined Joanie for a nightcap in the lobby bar. Off to Mass tomorrow morning to thank God for safe and happy travels, no tear gas, good beer, and my wonderful wife.

More on our New Hotel

So, as college kids would be expected to do, the UHON kids explored the area around the hotel last night. Apparently, this hotel (the Metropolitan) caters to business people with large expense accounts so everything here is outrageously expense. A cocktail in the bar is 12 euros (about $18), so at least we do not have to worry about them drinking the night away in the bar! The only businesses around the hotel are baby stores (we are next door to a maternity ward) and car dealerships, so no late-night clubbing for the kids. Last night we saw most of them playing cards in the lobby. Perhaps we can exhaust them enough during the day with adventures of such magnitude that the lack of late-night activities around the hotel will cease to be an issue.
As for the alums and the old people, we are settling in quite well. The hotel has all the amenities I like in a hotel -- air conditioning, sound-proof walls, hot water and Sweet 'n Low. Things we have not had at other hotels.

Thursday and Friday -- The Calm Before the Storm

So sorry for the delay in posting. We left Nafplion on Thursday morning and heading to Delphi -- beautiful little Greek mountain villiage that is home to about 3,000 people. On the way, we stopped and visited the Rio Antirio Bridge, which connects the Peloponnese Peninsula (where we had been) with the Greek mainland (where we were going). The Rio Antirio Bridge in an engineering feat beyond description, and our pictures do not do it justice. Nonetheless, I had to post a pic of Tony in his Mark Ingram/Alabam jersey with the bridge as an homage to both the bridge and one of our favorite players and teams. As for Delphi, it is beautiful, and way up in the mountains and home to millions of olive trees. We had very limited Internet access, and by the time I was able to get access to the Internet, Blogspot (my blog service) was temporarily out of service so I could not make a post. I had very little to report from Thursday anyway. We did a little sightseeing on the way to Delphi, had a nice lunch (more Greek salad for me) and arrived at Delphi to find our hotel had been changed at the last minute. Not a big deal as our new hotel had the best view in Delphi. I have posted a view from the balcony.

After a modest breakfast this morning, we left Delphi for Athens. We stopped to visit the Delphi Museum and some of the archaeological sites of Delphi on the way out of town. Sadly, two of the group, Sherry Walker and I did not make the climb up to the site with everyone else. Sherry did not feel up to the climb, and I have gotten sick with what appears to be a respiratory infection. Not fun, but I am taking meds to try and feel better.

After leaving Delphi, as we approached Athens, we discovered that a very last-minute switch in hotels in Athens had been made without our knowledge. Apparently, there is a large convention of physicians in Athens and they wanted our original hotel (Plaka Hotel) enough that they were willing to pay big $$$. So, Plaka Hotel decided it was worth it to cancel our reservation at the last minute and pay the cancellation fee and take the doctors over the students. So, as we were parked at the ticket gate the Acropolis, we had a bus full of students who THOUGHT they would be staying at a hotel in the CENTER of Athens near all the cool sites when, in fact, they had been moved to a hotel (the Metropolitan) on the outskirts of town beyond the reach of the Metro and far away from the sites. As the administrators yelled at travel agents on their cell phones, the students sat on the bus and sang songs. It was something to behold. At this point, we are at the Metropolitan (a 5-star hotel, at least by Greek standards) and wondering if we will be here the remainder of our time in Athens (my guess is: probably). The travel agency is sending a bus to take us the Acropolis and back tomorrow. The hotel provided us a buffet dinner tonight, and kids ate and ate. The hotel provides a free shuttle to the center of the city and back every hour, so we will probably rely on that for transportation while we are here. In other words, all it well. Except for my, everyone is healthy and having a great time. I am having a very good time, just having to work at it a bit with the respiratory thing.

I have discovered some interesting things, though, on this trip. Most of the students LOVE the cheese pie here, but many of them HATE olives. How can so many students hate olives? I just do not get it? There seems to be A LOT of egg bread here. Not sure why that is, but is delicious. Also, there are cats everywhere. We sometimes even hear them fighting outside our hotel rooms at night. Cats, cats, everywhere. Also, many people here get really upset when they have to make change. If you fail to pay with exact change they get really upset. There is pollen everywhere, and many of us are having allergy issues. The students tell me the shopkeepers love to give them "student discounts" to convince them to buy things.

Okay, that is it for now. Will try to do better keeping in touch.

Joanie

P.S. Tony FINALLY got this SPARTA t-shirt!!!!!

Mystras

We took a 2 and 1/2 hour bus ride on Wednesday through Sparti (what we call Sparta) to Mystras. In 1204 the Franks chose Mystras as the headquarters for the Greek empire. They had some good years here until they were conquered by the Byzantine Greeks in 1259. According to legend, Frankish leader William de Villehardouin might have escaped if a Greek soldier had not recognized him because of his famously protuding buckteeth.

Mystras contained churches, more than 2,000 houses, a huge Palace of Despots -- some 25,ooo people lived there. We hiked through many of the ruins and visited several of the churches. The footing was so treacherous in some places, I was glad I had my walking stick. The despots never walked, and now I see why!

After Constantinople and and the Byzantine empire fell to the Turks in 1453, Mystras held out -- the last Byzantine emporor was crowned in the cathedral at Mystras, and Mystras finally fell to the Turks in 1460.

We stopped briefly in Sparti (again, the place we know as Sparta.) Tony was amused that the first thing he saw in Sparta was a woman in pink spandex pants who was smoking a cigarrette and walking her poodle. I wanted to see the Museum of the Olive and Greek Olive Oil, and Tony wanted to buy a SPARTA t-shirt. We did not have time for me to get to the Museum of the Olive and Greek Olive Oil, so I will live the rest of my live feeling a bit culturally deprived now. Tony could not find a SPARTA t-shirt. He was appalled to discover that there were plenty of Hanna Montana t-shirts, but no SPARTA t-shirts. I could find no words of comfort for the man.

At this point, we boarded the bus for the 2 and 1/2 hour ride back to Nafplion. This will be our last night in Nafplion as we plan to head to Delphi next. We were on own for dinner last night. Tony and I had a great dinner. We shared some Fried Feta. [Cathy, I think you would LOVE the cheese over here!] Then Tony had some Greek pasta, and I had some pasta with more Feta and cherry tomatoes. We both had Greek salads for lunch. The food here is great.

Dickie and Jeni, we are getting LOTS of use out of the First Aid kit you gave me for Christmas. Nothing bad, just small aches and pains, but the First Aid kit has REALLY gotten lots of use, so thanks for that.

Jacob, I hope you are enjoying reading the blog, send questions if you have them!

We have loved hearing from home. The students are all having a great time and learning a lot.

Joanie

Tuesday in Greece

We departed from Nafplion for a day of adventures. We started in Tiryns, which is a Mycenaean citadel that Homer called "well-walled." There are massive walls (our guide told that the Greeks thought only giants known at Cyclops could have placed these huge walls) and lots of climbing to get to the top to see storage galleries and chambers. What had the attention of some is that just as we arrived she told us it was the time of year when the "snakes awaken" so "please do not move any rocks." Yikes!

After our visit to Tiryns, w,e moved to to Mycenae. According to Homer, King Agamemnon of Mycenae was the most powerful Greek leader at the time of the time of the Trojan War. According to Homer, it was King Agamemnon who led the Greeks from Mycenae (which he called "rich in gold") to Troy around 1250 B.C. There the Greeks fought for 10 years to reclaim Helen, the wife of Agamemnon's brother Menalaus, from her seducer, the Trojan prince Paris. While we generally refer to Helen at Helen of Troy, in Greece, they refer to her as "Helen the Beautiful." [At this point in the day, BOTH of camera batteries lost power, so I don't have many pictures from today. sad face]

After another good climb up and down at Mycenae, we stopped on the way at the Beehive Tomb. It was it says, a tomb that looks like a giant beehive. It is really impressive.

From there we moved on to lunch. The food here is fantastic. Many of us at our table had lamb that was roasted on a spit. It literally fell off the bone. I wish we could find lamb like this in the States, but . . . . One fun part of lunch occurred when the alums with whom I was sitting began asking about some of the current students on the trip. Now, I should mention that these alums are from the FIRST class of honors students who graduated in 1981. Ther were dumbstruck to learn that one of the students on the trip is the offspring of one of the students who was in the Honors Program during their era!

Once lunch was over, we moved on for another adventure and visited the amphitheatre at Epidaurus. Epidaurus claims to have the best accoutiscs in the entire world. Many tourists attempted to test it by getting up and singing and performing all sorts of things. Candidly, some were better than others. UHON's own John Moser, however, was one of the best when he got up and performed one of the first poetry readings he ever did. We all loved it! The theatre was built in the 4th century and seats about 14,000 people. Tony and I climbed to the top and took in a breathtaking view.

After all the climbing, we arrived back at the hotel and I fell asleep. Tony took a run, and many went out for dinner, but I just fell asleep. I am now up before everyone this morning blogging before breakfast. It is about 5:30 am here, and we have another big day ahead of us. We have loved hearing from everyone. All the students and staff are well. The weather was actually chilly yesterday, and we are expectiong a bit of rain today, but nothing bad.

On a personal note, Mark, I am glad your mother's procedure went well.

Joanie

Ancient Corinth

Many think of Ancient Corinth beacuse of the myth of Jason and Medea. If you remember, Jason was allowed to marry Medea after he killed the sleepless dragon (which Medea actually drugged with a narcotic herb, thus helping him along.) They married and had two kids, but Jason then betrayed Medea by leaving her for the daughter of the King of Corinth, the beautiful Glauce. Medea was not one to just sit back and accept such a betrayal so killed her children and served their flesh to Jason for dinner (other versions of the myth say she gave Glauce a dress and a golden coronet, covered in poison.) In any case, Medea was woman one would not dare cross.

Much of Greek history goes back to activity in Ancient Corinth. If you are interested in learning more, I would recommend several sites:

http://www.wikipedia.org./wiki/Ancient_Corinth

http://www.grisel.net/corinth.htm

I have included some pictures from our trip to Ancient Corinth. (some did not load, I will post them later!) We also had lunch at a site where the bridge lowers to let boats through, so the walkway we used to get to the restaurant went underwater while we were there so a boat could get past. It was really amazing. We have long day ahead so off to breakfast.

More later!

Joanie

We Have Landed in Greece!

Yahsu! That is "Hello" in Greek. Our tour guide, Cleo, greeted us as the group from the "University of Honors." If our Provost, Dr. Phil Oldham, reads this, he should know that we no longer want our own Honors College -- we now want our own University -- the University of Honors!

We found everyone's bags (no small matter), and took off for a two-hour coach ride to Ancient Corinth. During the ride, Cleo gave us a bit of background on Greece. We saw lots of olive trees -- they grow about 15 different species of olives here -- black, green, purple, but Kalamata olives are the most popular. Greece ranks 3rd in the world for production of olives. Yum!
The population of Greece is over 11 million, and 6 million of these people live in Athens. Of those 6 million, about 2 million come from the Balkan states, and others come from Poland, Bangladesh, the Philipines and the former U.S.S.R. Recent immigrants have come from Libya and Egypt. Virtually everyone who lives in Athens lives in apartment-style housing because Athens is a city that was planned to accommodate 1 million people, and is bursting to house 6 million. Yikes!

We stopped on the way to Ancient Corinth to get an amazing view of the Canal of Corinth. The Canal cuts through the Isthmus of Corinth (Isthmus means "narrow strip of landed bordered on by sides by water.") The Canal separates the Peloponneisan peninsula from the Greek mainland. It connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Aegean Sea. It was built between 1882 and 1893, which was an absolutely amazing feat when you see it and think about all the rock they had to cut through to carve out this very narrow canal -- it is only 75 feet wide. Many attempts had been made to build this canal, but it was Hungarian engineers who succeeded. Previous attempts had resulted in a long 25-foot-wide ditch. So now, many in Greece do not say they are from north or south. Instead, they are from "before the ditch" (northern Greece) or "beyond the ditch" (southern Greece).

I am anxious to tell you more about Ancient Corinth and our afternoon, but we have to meet the group for dinner. Everyone is well, the Greek salads are FABULOUS, and the weather is perfect. Tony will post later, too.

Joanie

Joanie